On Yasawairara - Moniti (Monday)

Monday
I believe celebrations are in order... I've officially been in Fiji for three weeks! The Lord has done amazing things in my life, and in in the lives of those around me, and I can't wait to see what He does with the next seven!
I awoke to a familiar smell... Fijian "coffee". This coffee-like tea is made solely from coconuts, sugar, and water and is more delectable than most real "coffees" I've tasted. I'll explain the process in another post so you can try it at home sometime!
After watching Mosese make the "coffee", I washed myself awake with another bucket "shower" and took a walk down the beach. As the sun rose over the, now familiar, lagoon I realized I would be leaving this place later today. I grew sad as I saw the many friendly faces I'd met flash before me. I was praying and asking The Lord to bring me back here someday when Mosese ran down the beach to me and said we were going to visit more family members. We walked through the village again and enjoyed the sights before making our way back home for another Roti and tea breakfast (quickly becoming my favorite meal), before resting for a bit before our departure... A few last goodbyes and some extra band aids applied to my blisters and we were off. We caught a ride on the flatbed truck to the resort, again flying over the hills and dodging the tropical trees as we made our way to the resort. Everything was so beautiful, yet my heart was downcast.

The Lord has provided many incredible experiences, amazing places and welcoming cultures for me to explore in the last few years... And yet, this island felt as much like home as any 5 star resort or westernized "home" I've ever been to. I've been very comfortable within a culture before, but I definitely wasn't expecting "comfort" when I was preparing for the island. They made me feel like I was one of the family and I could not be more thankful for all those who live in Bukama village for their viqwaravi (hospitality) and kindness.

We reached the entirely breathtaking resort where I saw my new friends from the village. Only now, they were dressed in the "traditional-Fijian"(touristic) attire while serving fruity alcoholic drinks to the boisterous, white tourists. I had prayed on my way to the resort for the Lord to open my attitude to what I would see at the resort, knowing full well that my heart would be heavy seeing the immense wealth of the resort within less than 3km from the polar-opposite that the Bukamans live in. I looked over to see an American tourist arguing with the waiter over how dry his martini was or was not, I  couldn't tell. To my right I saw the spectacular pool and the fountains, plush furniture surrounding the brightly-lit (with 24 hour electricity) lobby with soft jazz music playing through the wireless speakers.

I smiled at how blessed I was. 

Not that I was now in the resort, in fact, just the opposite. I smiled at the fact that I had laughed, shared in more conversation and fellowship, and had enjoyed a more realistic Fijian experience for the last 4 days than any of these visitors might think they are experiencing.

I smiled at the songs and prayers I had heard during the church services the day before.

I smiled as the wind drifted the fresh smell of the ocean across my salt-crusty, 

sunburnt, and "unwashed" skin. 

I realized how blessed I was to experience the Fiji I needed to see, rather than the "Fiji" people want to see when they visit. People want to see a prosperous Island with bountiful food and drinks. People want to see a tropical paradise "unspoiled" by the tourists (ironic, seeing as they are spoiling it by their western presence). People see what they want to when they visit Fiji, and completely miss the need and simplicity of the lives of those around them. If you go looking for a good time in a luxurous resort with a plethora of the western comforts and familiarities, you will indeed find exactly that.
However, when you find yourself in Fiji (or anywhere else in the world, for that matter), it has become my prayer that you would open your eyes to what the Lord wants you to see. He will show you the needs of those around you. He will show you true joy found in the moonlit conversations of those around you who love you. He will show you what complete contentment looks like when you look into the smiling eyes of a a barefoot child. And He will show you a part of yourself you could have never imagined.

As the little plane lifted from the grassy airstrip, I knew in my heart that I would come back to Bukama at some time. Maybe not on my timetable, but I had a peace in my heart that the Yasawa Islands would still be there when I come back, down the proverbial-road from now...And I can't wait until the day when I can go join my friends again around a plate of Ibo and say cola-vina once again.
But for now, it's back to the mainland and to the soon-arriving teams from Bakersfield and Santa Fe to see what the Lord has for the next two weeks!
For now, move and sota tale!
- Stini

Location: Bukama Village, Yasawairara, Fiji Islands

On Yasawairara - Sigatabu (Sunday)

Sunday

After sleeping in, yet again, we made our way, in a hurry, back to the beach we went spear diving off of. We were just in time to see the sun rising out of the Eastern sea. As we sat, I read out of my new Nai Vola Tabu (Bible) and took pictures as the once dark coconut palms around us soon transformed into glowing emerald fans. The entire beach was soon lit up with the warmth of the sun. After a short walk back, we arrived back at home where Mosese's mother, Siliva, was preparing the fried Fijian pancakes called Babakau. We also enjoyed our wheat-bix (a delicious mix between shredded-wheat and corn-flake cereal bar), tea, and bread an butter before getting ready for church. I was so anxious for my sermon when, 30 minutes before church was supposed to start, Mosese informed me that I would be speaking at the night-time AofG service... Not this morning's Methodist service. Whew! From then, we waited until we heard the Lali (lolly - Fijian traditional drum) calling the members to worship (the Fijian equivalent to church bells). In my pocket sulu and button up, we rounded the corner to the church and I stood dumbfounded... Before my eyes, the last thing I had ever expected to see...
White people!!

I suppose it was a bit like the moment on the TV show "Lost" when the group first finds out about the "others" on the island. Gathering my composure, I approached and greeted the, now obvious, resort visitors. Shaking hands and answering all the "What are you doing in this tiny village?!" questions, my attention turned to a couple who's appearance seemed somewhat familiar... It wasn't until they spoke that I knew what I found intriguing about them... ITALIANS! In Fiji of all places! They laughed as I tried to transition my mind from English to Fijian, to Korean, to Bulgarian, before I finally found my Italian vocabulary again! It had been so long since I'd been able to practice it! Wow! After a nice Italian conversation with them, it was time to go inside. The children were singing as we entered, with the adults joining them as they arrived. After a brief record-reading for the church, the resort visitors were welcomed and a special welcome was extended to me as one of the Bukamans. After the service, I said "Ciao!" To my new friends and Mosese and I headed back home.

We changed out of our church clothes and enjoyed lunch with a large group of family members... The fiji we had caught yesterday wasn't a surprise, but what was surprising was pouring coconut milk over the fish! It was so good! Though, it was a little difficult to eat as I hadn't used a fork since my arrival on Friday, but it was great all the same. After lunch, we were off on another adventure. This time, since the tide was low, we took the right out past the peninsula on the far side of the village. Ever since hearing of the Yasawas, my country director Aralai has told me about a special place where there are "blue rocks". As we continued over the jagged barnacle-covered rocks, I didn't know what we would find when we came to the cove only accessible in low tide... Blue rocks! But not just any blue rocks. I'm quite sure this is turquoise!! Everywhere! It was beautiful! Underfoot, in the cliffs, under the water... Everywhere! (Naturally, I collected some to remember the experience!) We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the tide pools and just making our way around the peninsula.

One thing I've always wanted to see, particularly here on Yasawairara, is the "dadakulaci". Though the black-and-white-banded Sea Krate, or sea snake, may not be to high on most peoples' must-see-in-Fiji list... It's been pretty close to the top of mine since my arrival. As I was sharing my desire to see one with Sakarai who had joined us, I heard Atu (Mosese's cousin) call out the words I'd been waiting for!! "La mai! La mai! Dadakulaci!!!" I began scuffling over the rocks as fast as my worn Chacos could take me until I reached the rock where Atu was standing. There it was, tucked into the rock pretending we didn't exist. It's broad, shiny scales slowly working further and further into the rock as the muscles under the black and white bands I've been looking for undulated with th serpentine power that intrigues me so much. As Atu prodded with a stick attempting to get it out for a better photo, I saw the tail. Flattened like a rudder, the sea snake's tail has always fascinated me, and now, I was seeing it in person! Once we realized that the snake wouldn't be coming out any time soon, we moved on and continued to hike back to the village by way of the beautiful white beach we watched the sunrise from that morning.

Once we arrived back at home, we had tea and enjoyed some rest before leaving again...
Mosese had a plan for where we could go to watch the sunset. The "lookout" as they call it, was actually about a 2 mile hike and most of it was (very steeply) uphill! However, once the four if us arrived, it couldn't have been more worth it. From the lookout, we could see both sides of the island, and the next three islands past Yasawairara. As the sun sank slowly behind the sea, I couldn't help but be blown away by the goodness of everything around me. The people, the island, and the Lord who had given them both to me or the past 3 days. After many photos and singing praise songs, the four of us began to trek down to Bukama once again. Sakarai and I hung back as he wanted a bit of an English lesson... His broken English was good, but we used the time to talk about tenses. For instance, "God creates the world in 7 days? Or maybe He 'create?' Or 'created?'"The past- tense was particularly hard for him to understand, but I think our short time really helped. After the lesson, he noticed I was quite quiet. He asked, in Fijian, if I was OK, so I told him I was just thinking about tonight's sermon and the singing we'd been asked to do. He grabbed my shoulder and looked into my eyes, stopping our journey on the dirt road, to pray with me and tell me that I was his brother now, and that the rest of the village he'd talked to felt the same way. "You're family now, Stini. You eat with us, you stay here, you are family. No need for nervous." With a smile he continued ahead to leave my head swimming. For a culture where family is everything, and everyone in the village is literally family, his words meant so much to me. I thanked the Lord for Sakarai and for the encouragement He'd given me through him as we entered the village.

After a quick, refreshing bucket-shower, I donned my pocket sulu and button up once again and we made our way to the Assemblies of God church by the beach on the edge of the village; hiking through a flooded area of town... Wet Chacos, blisters, and thorns sticking into my ankles--I was distracted. We arrived as they were practicing singing and stood at the back until it was time of our special music. As Mosese and I too the "stage" The Lord calmed my nerves entirely. Since I arrived, my voice has gone in and out with all the salt, singing we've already done, and my pervasive sinus infection. No sooner had I finished praying for the Lord to give me my voice back for the next few minutes than Mosese had already finished the intro an it was time... To a people who had just experienced, first hand, the power of a hurricane just over a year ago, the verse to "How He Loves" hung in the air with many "Emeni's" and "Hallelujahs". Even with the guitar missing it's high 'E' string, Mosese played and it sounded beautiful! I had not been able to sing the key-change portion of the song since our arrival and, yet, when it was time, my voice was clear and my sinuses cooperated for the duration of the song! Praise the Lord!

As the service continued I felt a peace as I was finally sure of what I needed to speak on... James 1:22 "Be not only hearers of the Word, but also doers." But. As the pastor was called forward, Mosese said it seemed that he would be preaching the sermon. At first, I was selfish. I thought,

"Why did you have me spend all the time preparing to tell the people 

the message you had for me, God?" 

Later, I couldn't help but smile as I realized what the Lord had done. When I found out I would be teaching, I wrote my sermon notes in my prayer journal (the only paper I had). I wrote things like, "Arise and listen to the Lord's calling... Then act on it!" I then realized the sermon had indeed been a message from The Lord, but it was a message for me. Yes. He gave me this incredible time on the island, but He had also been there the whole time, through our songs, intentional conversations, and even asking the children what they knew about "Jisu". He wanted me to remember that we don't have to be in a church or on a missions trip to be missionaries. He wanted me to listen to Him always, but then to follow His prodding. Wow! I don't even remember the rest if the service except for the cold wind that reminded me of the beach just 30 feet from the church. After the sermon, Mosese took the beach back to the house to avoid the flooded area if the village, soaking in the moonlight and enjoying the wind blowing in off the sea. As soon as we got back to the house, I laid down on my bed and, after writing for a bit, fell asleep once again to the sound wind and waves outside my window and the sight of the many geckos chasing the bugs across the ceiling above me. Beautiful.

Location:Bukama Village, Yasawairara, Fiji Islands

On Yasawairara - Vakarauwai (Saturday)

Saturday
I woke to the slight wiggling of my hand by Mosese. We had both slept in and were about to miss the sunrise! Quickly I got myself together and headed to the beach. After a short walk we found a nice fallen coconut-palm trunk to sit on and enjoy the rising of our star in the east. As dawn broke we were joined by Mosese's cousin Atu. We sang for a bit, watched the sun rise, and enjoyed some Fijian "peanuts" (a tree-nut), which tasted like a mix between a walnut, a pecan, and an almond... Delicious! We gathered them from the sea (as is tradition) so they even had a natural sea-salt taste to them. Mmmm! 1st breakfast!
We got back to the house ad enjoyed some homemade Roti (Indian tortilla-like flatbread) soaked in coconut milk (probably the best breakfast I've ever had), before preparing for our day in the sea. Back in Lautoka, I talked to Mosese about my love of the ocean an it was decided that we would go spear fishing. After collecting the necessary supplies for the slingshot apparatus, and hearing the many shark-stories from Mosese's childhood, we were finally going spear diving! This morning, as we sharpened our homemade spears (steel rods), I couldn't help but let my knowledge of sharks get the best of me. I know a lot about marine life from my nerdy-homeschool days of reading encyclopedias and watching discovery and animal planet every time I could... I was able to identify the sharks in the stories just by how Mosese said they moved. I would show him a photo online and he would say "yeah! That's the one!" Unfortunately, I discovered the majority of his stories involved bull sharks with a few reef sharks here and there an one particularly horrifying story involving a tiger shark. As we walked to our location, I had a moment of nervousness. We prayed as a group (there were four of us going) and we headed out into the water.

After getting my bearings I was quickly surrounded with the world of Finding Nemo. The fish swirled around in large schools and the coral swayed in time with the rhythmic waves rolling above me. I tried several times to spear a fish but the pressure in my ears was increasing as we got further out beyond the reef. I remember thinking... I wonder how far out we are? I raise my head to find that we were almost 1 mile from the beach! It was beautiful and scary at the same time! We continued hunting, my companions getting fish after fish, when suddenly I heard the Yasawan word for shark echoing above the waves. Unfortunately, or rather... Fortunately, the story is not nearly as exciting a it might seem, as the 5 ' White-tip Reef Shark continued to glide around the coral we were hunting around. As the shark slipped away into the blue my nerves were at ease. We were swimming towards shore when I heard "Vonu!!! Vonu!!!" The endangered Hawksbill Sea Turtle was slowly making it's way across the seabed until it noticed us. Then it swam off like David Phelps leaving us in the bubbles. That made for two creatures I could strike off of my "must-sea" list! We swam back four hours later with the waves pushing us back over the reef where my world was filled with a rainbow of color once more. Every fish more beautiful than the last...Whatever breath I had in my snorkel was taken away at each passing
reef head.

Our afternoon was spent sitting on the black, volcanic rock and munching on more coconut as we recounted our stories, sang, and thanked God for His protection while in the sea and the provision of our large catch. We walked back along the pristine beach before trekking back through the bush towards Bukama. We arrived back and rested while the fish were prepared for our lunch at 4 PM. While resting, Sarkarai's two children and Mosese's cousins joined us on the mat and we took many pictures, sang Sunday-school songs, and they practiced their English on me. I made the mistake of lifting the kids one by one up into the air counting in Fijian then lifting. Eventually, with 3 kids on each arm, after four hours of spear-diving/treading water... I was exhausted! At last our lunch was finished and we enjoyed the spoils of our catch. Grilled fish over an open flame and then soaked in hot sea-water... It was amazing! Among the best fish I've ever tasted! Served with kasava and tea, I knew there was no chance of going hungry on Yasawairara.

After lunch we rested for a bit before our next adventure. We eventually made our way back towards the beach we spear-fished off of but, instead of fish, this time we were collecting coconuts. With the kids running ahead of us as our "helpers", we made our way off the rough road and into the bush once again. After a quick stop for some fresh papaya off the tree, we finally located some coconuts and hitched a ride back on the same flatbed truck we'd ridden on the day before. We got back in time for dinner and enjoyed fried fish, kasava, and the Bukaman delicacy of Ibo (eembo). I was nervous to try the Ibo as 2 foot sand-worms generally aren't too high on my list if good-eats. I was surprised however when the flavor was surprisingly American (They were fried, after all). Despite getting the somewhat stringy insides of the worm stuck in your teeth, they were surprisingly good! Just like a strange, unbreaded, 2 foot long, calamari.

By this time, between the multiple tea-times and three square meals with snacks all in between, I was full, tired, and entirely content. Later, sitting in the beach and staring up at the stars, it was a very odd moment. I realized, for the first time, that these were new stars. I couldn't find the Big Dipper or Orion's Belt... And the only thing brighter than the moon was probably my huge, beaming smile. The strong winds whipping through my salty clothes, cooling my sunburnt and jellyfish stung skin. I began to pray. Why? Why me, God? Why did he choose me to come to Fiji? Why did he open the (many miraculous) doors for me to make it to Yasawairara on such short notice for 4 days? Why did he give me my ideal night on a beach? I got back the answer... "Because I love you."

"God is good,"

"All the time,"

"And all the time,"

"God is good."

This common church-phrase rang in my ears for some reason. Is it that God is good because He gives us good things? Is that how shallow our perception of Him is? I have grown to really question the phrase, "It's a blessing."Is that new "thing" you just bought really a blessing? This trip has truly made me realized the over abundance I have. And in America... I'm not even wealthy!! God's blessings are everything that falls within His will, whether they make us comfortable or "uncomfortable". True blessings flow from Him as water from a fresh spring. Overflowing us with things that we, sometimes, can't yet understand but can come to appreciate through the wisdom He gives us. I could say that coming to Fiji has been a blessing for me, and don't doubt for a second that I haven't enjoyed myself, but the true blessing has been the growth and fellowship I've received upon my arrival... The incredible beauty of this place still overwhelms me, but that's just the tip of the iceberg when I think about the other gifts The Lord has given me through these last 19 days. And I couldn't be more grateful for the hospitality of these people, or for God's continuing faithfulness as I grow in Him more each day.

Another quick walk on the beach, and I, again, fell asleep before the rest of the family and didn't wake up until the next morning.

Our (their) Catch!

The Sea Turtle is highlighted in the top-right!

Mili, Sam, and Pita!

Mosese's Sister, Mita, was helping with the cooking.

Mosese's Mom is an expert Roti maker!

I, on the other hand, am definitely not.

The Ibo (Sand Worms) we ate!

On our way to find coconuts! 

Location:Bukama Village, Yasawairara, Fiji Islands